On the assumption that I won’t have time to see Heversham and Kendal at the end of the previous day, I will start day 2 by heading there, down the A6 from Penrith.
Along the way, I may briefly stop at Eamont Bridge and Lowther. Esmeralda recommended Eamont Bridge as the site of the 927 English-Scots treaty. Tim Clarkson points to Lowther as the Cumbrian Loida in the Life of St. Cathroe (c. 900-970).
Kendal and Heversham both show a 1oth century break in Anglian sculptural remains indicating Scandinavian incursion (Bailey, p. 80). Kendal’s parish church of the Holy Trinity has a mid-ninth century Anglian cross monument. Is there anything to see in Heversham from the Anglo-Saxon period other than landscape?
My interest is with Abbot Tilred, who leaves Heversham for Norham (HSC 21) and later becomes bishop of Chester-le-Street. In fiction, I have made him Aldred’s uncle (mother Tilwif’s brother).
From Heversham, I intend to meander across to the M6 (not sure about the roads) and the A685 in order to get to Kirkby Stephen in the Eden valley, where I am locating Aldred’s family. Kirkby Stephen has more evidence of Scandinavian take over of Anglian sites in place name evidence (Fellows-Jensen, 77-80) and sculpture, including a curious carving of Loki/Satan (Bailey, plate 40 and pp. 138-39).
The A685 takes me north to Brough, with a Roman fort (Verteris). The A66 west will then take me through Appleby, Kirkby Thore, and Temple Sowerby on my way back to Penrith, come full (oval) circle. Perhaps Appleby Archaeology will have something going on.
It seems I will be spending more time in the car than not, but in part I am trying to get a feel for the landscape traveled over by Aldred and his ancestors. Along the way, I hope to be able to safely pull off the road (on the LEFT side!) to get some pictures.
Bailey, Richard N. Viking Age Sculpture in Northern Britain. London: Collins, 1980.
Fellows-Jensen, Gillian. “Scandinavian Settlement in Cumbria and Dumfriesshire: The Place Name Evidence.” In The Scandinavians in Cumbria, ed. John R. Baldwin and Ian D. Whyte. Edinburgh: Scottish Society for Northern Studies, 1985, pp. 65-82.
HSC: Historia de Sancto Cuthberto: A History of Saint Cuthbert and a Record of His Patrimony, ed. and trans. Ted Johnson South, Anglo-Saxon Texts 2 (Cambridge: D. S. Brewer, 2002)